Athens – Hadrian’s Arch

I like an old gateway and this arch dates to 131AD or 132AD, so it’s done well not to fall down in the intervening period or to be used to make lime. It’s made of Pentelic marble, which is the same stone that was used to build the Parthenon. It stands 18 metres tall and it apparently, so the signage says, is a blend of Greek and Roman architectural styles. There are inscriptions which mark something of a divide between the classical Greek City founded by Theseus and the newer Roman area influenced by Hadrian. It’s not known whether it’s meant to be a rigid boundary or a symbol of the integration of Greek and Roman cultures under Hadrian’s rule. It was likely funded by the Athenians to thank Emperor Hadrian for his benefactions to the city and he’s a very lucky man to have a wall in northern England and a gate in Athens after him.

The side of the arch, the origins of which are inevitably a little lost to history and it’s not known who the architect was of the whole arrangement. The Wall of Haseki was built in 1778 when Athens was run by Hadji Ali Haseki and this was a wall around the city which incorporated Hadrian’s Arch. The wall was reduced to ruins during the 1826 Ottoman Siege of Athens and was promptly demolished, although the historic arch was kept.

It’s located next to a busy road and that’s inevitably having something of an impact on it and its colour is a little murky in places. In November 1935 it was reported that:

“Extraordinary tumultuous scenes broke out as King George of the Hellenes, to-day, again set foot in his capital, after his long exile. Wearing evening dress, and with a monocle in his right eye, the King, his face twitching with restrained emotion, had listened at Hadrian’s Arch, on the boundary of Athens, to an address of welcome by the Mayor of Athens. He then received the keys of the city and started to walk under the arch into the capital. Immediately there was a forward rush by the crowd, who seized the King and bore him shoulder high, cheering frantically and shouting “Long live the King.”

The cavalry were forced to clear the King’s route with drawn sabres. One man received a wound on the head from which blood streamed, and others were also hurt. Rescued from the ebullient loyalty of the crowd, the King regained his car and continued the drive to the cathedral. Strict precautions against an attack on the returning monarch had been taken at all stages in the route of the Royal drive. Hadrian’s Arch was especially strongly guarded, in view of the long wait while the Mayor of Athens and the provincial Mayors welcomed the King.

Here, a guard of troops was drawn up and many spectators were stopped and searched for arms. Even girls in national costume were not spared. In his message to the Greek people on the occasion of his return, King George expresses deep emotion and infinite gratitude. He says he is ready to devote all his strength, his experience, and his life to the material and moral betterment of the whole people without exception. He promises absolute equality and justice for all.”

There had been an 11 year period with no Monarch, with King George II having served just 1 year and 160 days in his role, before he was reinstated in 1935. He held the role until 1 April 1947, although he was in exile between 1941 and 1946 due to the Second World War. But, it shows the importance of Hadrian’s Arch in the national pride of the country.